Christmas Cactus Care Guide

Christmas cactus care comes down to one idea: it is a forest cactus, not a desert one. Give it bright indirect light, water when the top of the mix feels dry, and in fall give it long, uninterrupted nights and cool temperatures so it sets flower buds.

Thanksgiving, Christmas or Easter cactus?

Iowa State Extension notes that most plants sold as “Christmas cactus” are actually Thanksgiving cactus or hybrids. Out of flower, the flat stem segments are the best clue.

Plant	Botanical name	Stem segment edges	Usual bloom time
Thanksgiving cactus	Schlumbergera truncata	2-4 pointed, upward-facing teeth, like small claws	Mid-November to late December
Christmas cactus	Schlumbergera × buckleyi	Rounded, scalloped edges with no pointed teeth	Late November to early February
Easter cactus	Hatiora gaertneri (syn. Rhipsalidopsis gaertneri)	Smoother, with 4-6 slight ripples	March to May

In flower, check the anthers at the tips of the stamens: yellow on Thanksgiving cactus, purplish-brown on Christmas cactus. The Easter cactus, which Iowa State now lists as Schlumbergera gaertneri, needs a different schedule.

If your plant’s segments look somewhere in between, Plantive, a free-to-download iPhone app that identifies plants from a photo, can help you check which one you have. See how to identify a plant from a photo for tips on a clear shot.

Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti share the same care; the Thanksgiving cactus simply flowers about a month earlier.

Water it like a forest cactus

Holiday cacti grow wild as epiphytes in the tree crotches of humid mountain forests in southeastern Brazil, taking water from rain and decaying plant matter. Their roots expect a soaking followed by quick drainage, not soggy soil or long drought.

• Most of the year: water when the top of the mix feels dry to the touch, let it drain, and empty the saucer.
• From bud set until flowering ends: keep the mix evenly moist. Drying out now is a common reason buds fall.
• After flowering: keep it a little cooler and water less often until new growth starts in spring.

Limp segments with wet mix suggest root rot; limp segments with dry mix mean thirst. The overwatering vs underwatering guide explains the difference.

Soil, pot and feeding

A special cactus mix is not required. Use a well-drained all-purpose potting mix with extra perlite, in a pot with drainage holes. Holiday cacti flower best when somewhat pot-bound, so repot only every few years, in spring.

Feed monthly at half strength through spring and summer, then stop in late summer to encourage flowering.

Light and temperature

Bright, indirect light suits it most of the year. Strong summer sun can make the segments look pale, while full sun in fall and winter is beneficial.

It is comfortable at 70-80°F (21-27°C) while growing in spring and summer. Never let it sit below 50°F (10°C). If it summered outdoors, see our guide to bringing plants indoors for winter.

How to get a Christmas cactus to bloom again

Holiday cacti set buds in response to long nights, cool temperatures or both. The usual reason one does not bloom is a fall spent in a warm room where lamps are on every evening.

1. Give it long nights. From about mid-September, Clemson Extension recommends 14 hours or more of continuous darkness every night for at least six weeks; other extension services give 13 to 16 hours. Use an unused room or a spot you can cover, because even a couple of hours of lamplight at night can prevent bud set.
2. Keep it cool. Fall temperatures of about 60-68°F (16-20°C) suit it, and nights of 50-59°F (10-15°C) set buds regardless of day length. Iowa State notes that temperatures above 70°F (21°C) prevent flowering.
3. Stop fertilizing from late summer.
4. Tidy the tips in late September. Remove tiny new segments under about 3/8 inch (1 cm) so buds form on mature segments.
5. Watch for buds. They normally appear within 3 to 4 weeks. Then move the plant to its display spot and leave it there.

Why Christmas cactus buds drop

Bud drop almost always follows a change after the buds formed:

• Moving the plant, especially from a cool spot into a warm living room.
• Temperature swings near heat vents, fireplaces or drafty doors. Above 90°F (32°C), set buds drop.
• Watering extremes, either letting the mix dry out or keeping it soggy.
• Too many buds. A heavily budded plant may shed some on its own.

Propagating from stem segments

In late spring or early summer, twist off a piece 2 to 5 segments long at a joint and let the cut end dry overnight. Insert it about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in moist perlite or coarse sand and keep it barely moist in bright indirect light. Roots usually form in 3 to 8 weeks.

Pests

Mealybugs, soft brown scale, spider mites, aphids and fungus gnats can all turn up. White cottony tufts in the stem joints point to mealybugs. Isolate the plant and use a product labeled for the pest and for indoor use, following the label.

Is Christmas cactus safe for cats and dogs?

The ASPCA lists Christmas cactus as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses, under the older name Schlumbergera bridgesii, which makes it one of the easier pet-safe houseplants for the holidays. If a pet eats a large amount, call your veterinarian or an animal poison control line. A poinsettia is different: the ASPCA lists it as toxic, though mildly so.

Sources and further reading

• Thanksgiving & Christmas Cacti — Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center
• All About Holiday Cacti — Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
• Schlumbergera x buckleyi — NC State Extension
• Christmas Cactus — ASPCA Animal Poison Control