Poinsettia Care Guide

Poinsettia care is mostly about avoiding cold and getting the watering right. Keep it in bright light at 60-70°F (16-21°C), away from drafts and heat, and water when the soil surface feels dry, with the decorative foil removed so the pot can drain.

The red parts are bracts, not flowers

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) is a shrub native to Mexico and Guatemala. The red, pink, white or marbled “petals” are bracts, which are modified leaves. The true flowers are the small yellow-green buttons in the center, called cyathia.

The cyathia show how fresh a plant is, and the bracts color only after weeks of long nights.

Choosing a healthy poinsettia

• Leaves: dark green all the way down the stems. Skip plants that are wilted or have few lower leaves.
• Bracts: brightly colored, without yellow or brown spots or edges.
• Cyathia: shedding little or no pollen.
• Stems: no broken or partly broken stems. Poinsettia stems are brittle.
• Pests: check leaf undersides for whiteflies, the most common poinsettia pest.

Getting it home in cold weather

Poinsettias are tropical and cold-sensitive. Temperatures below 50°F (10°C) cause chilling injury and leaf drop, and even brief exposure to freezing air can blacken the leaves.

1. Make it the last stop on your shopping trip.
2. Have it sleeved or wrapped before you carry it outside.
3. Put it in a heated car and go straight home.
4. Unwrap it as soon as you are indoors and set it in a bright spot.

Light and temperature during the holidays

Give it at least six hours of bright light a day near a sunny window, and keep it at 60-70°F (16-21°C).

Spot	What happens
Bright window, leaves clear of the glass	Best choice
Leaves touching a cold window	Chilling injury and leaf drop
Near an exterior door that opens often	Cold drafts cause leaf drop
Near a heat register, fireplace or radiator	Leaves yellow and fall, bracts fade early
Dim spot far from a window	Gradual leaf drop

Watering, and why the foil has to go

Iowa State Extension calls improper watering the main cause of most poinsettia problems in the home.

• Water when the soil surface feels dry to the touch.
• Lift the plant out of its foil sleeve or pot cover, water it in the sink until water runs out the bottom, and let it drain before putting it back.
• Never leave water standing in the foil or saucer. If you would rather not remove the foil, cut an opening in its base so water can escape.

Water trapped in foil keeps the roots wet, yellowing lower leaves and inviting root rot. Our guide to watering houseplants covers the basics.

Why poinsettia leaves fall off

• Sudden drop soon after purchase: cold on the way home, or a cold window or draft.
• Lower leaves yellow first, soil wet: overwatering or water trapped in the foil. See yellow leaves on houseplants.
• Plant wilts first, soil dry: underwatering. The drooping plant guide helps confirm it.
• Yellowing leaves and fading bracts near a heater: too much heat.
• Slow, steady drop in a dim room: not enough light.

After the holidays

Iowa State Extension treats poinsettias as temporary plants, so composting yours when it looks tired is fine. To keep it:

When	What to do
December to March	Bright window, steady temperatures, water when the surface is dry
March	Cut stems back to 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) above the soil; repot if needed
Spring	Once new growth appears, feed every 2 weeks with a dilute fertilizer
Late May to mid-September	Move outdoors after gradually adjusting it to outdoor light; pinch the shoot tips once or twice from late June to mid-August
Mid-September	Bring it back inside to a bright, sunny window

Wear gloves when cutting it back. Our guide to bringing plants indoors for winter covers that move back inside.

How to get a poinsettia to turn red again

Be realistic: reblooming at home is demanding. The bracts color only after about two months of completely dark nights, every night.

1. Start in late September or the first week of October.
2. Every night, give it at least 14 hours of complete darkness. Iowa State suggests 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. in a closet or under a box that blocks all light. Stray light from a lamp or streetlight, even briefly, can delay or prevent coloring.
3. Every day, give it 6 to 8 hours of bright light in a sunny window.
4. Keep nights in the low 60s°F (about 16-17°C), keep it watered, and feed every 2 weeks.
5. Continue for about 8 to 10 weeks, until the bracts show good color, usually by early December.

If that sounds like too much, buying a fresh plant each year is a sensible alternative.

Are poinsettias poisonous to cats and dogs?

The ASPCA lists poinsettia as toxic to dogs, cats and horses. Its irritant sap can irritate the mouth and stomach and sometimes causes vomiting, but the ASPCA also notes that its toxicity is generally overrated. It is not the deadly plant of holiday myth, but it is not pet-safe either.

Keep it out of reach of pets that chew plants, and call your veterinarian or an animal poison control line if a pet eats some and seems unwell. For holiday color that the ASPCA lists as non-toxic, consider a Christmas cactus, or browse our list of pet-safe houseplants.

Sources and further reading

• Guide to Selection and Care of Poinsettias — Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
• Poinsettia — Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center
• Euphorbia pulcherrima — NC State Extension
• Poinsettia — ASPCA Animal Poison Control